Indonesia: Si Unyil Manis

We try not to keep coffee on the shelves for long, so if we don't have a particular coffee in stock, we have to replenish the order after the roasting day. We roast on Tuesdays and Thursdays, pack the coffee and send it out on Wednesdays and Fridays.

You may have already noticed – the Brothers are collecting more coffee species. Arabica, canephora, liberica. But here we have to throw up our hands and say – the matter is disputed. Excelsa was discovered in 1903 and has been considered a separate species ever since. In 2006, its official classification was changed to a Liberica variety. However, many farmers and researchers question this decision, pointing to a number of characteristics unique to Excelsa.

We won’t be settling this debate. What we can say with a great deal of certainty, however, is that, just like Liberica, Excelsa has a unique flavour profile unlike that of any other variety. Sage, liquorice, and an exceptionally high level of sweetness. You simply can’t miss it. Very apt – the name Si Unyil Manis translates as „the little sweet one”.

In the coffee industry, one often hears claims about sustainable and biodiverse farming. These are often just empty slogans. Meanwhile, the Excelsa variety thrives precisely in such conditions. It grows readily in the shade of other trees, amongst a variety of plant species. Si Unyil Manis is grown in an equatorial forest, alongside banana trees, tobacco and tall shade trees. Compared to the nearby oil palm plantations, this is an incredibly vibrant ecosystem.

The producer of this coffee, Rainaldi, specialises in Excelsa like few others. For years, he has been searching for processing methods that allow the full expression of this variety’s flavour notes. In this case, the full name of the process is „anaerobic thermo-soaked natural”. In practice, this means that after harvesting, the cherries were subjected to a warm bath before being transferred to fermentation tanks. Further processing involves the classic natural drying method. The warm bath helps to eliminate some of the naturally occurring bacteria and fermentation yeasts. This results in a more stable and consistent anaerobic process.

We were looking for a promotional slogan for this coffee. So far, the best one we’ve come up with is: „If you thought Geisha was cool, it’s clear you haven’t tried Excelsa yet.” And mind you – we’re not joking at all.